Bigstones

Nearest Town: Stornoway, Isle of Lewis

OS Grid Reference: NB 21 33 30

Directions: From Stornoway, the only town on the Island, it is a simple matter of following the A858. The site is very well signposted. It may be spelt ‘Calanais’ or ‘Chalanais’. Large car park and visitor centre with cafe. Separate toilet block which was open all night. Free entry.

Site Notes: Callanish is up there with Stonehenge and Avebury as one of the most important prehistoric sites in Britain. While sharing some usual characteristics of other sites, it is unique in being in the form of a slightly misshapen Celtic Cross, although it is of course many thousands of years older than Christianity. The monument appears to have been constructed upon the 18 year Lunar cycle, predominantly the ‘standstill’ which occurs at the end of this cycle.

It is an incredible place to visit, and worthy of the effort required. You will either have to fly, or take the ferry, and then it will be a car or bus ride across the island. You should allow at least a couple of hours here, and preferably a chance to come back over several days. The aspect of the stones changes whether it is morning or evening, and the lack of a howling gale is always welcome! Although a prominent tourist destination, its remoteness allows you the chance to get the stones to yourself more than you might think.

A word on spelling. Everything on the island in recent years has been changed from Callanish to ‘Calanais’ which is Gaelic, that being the first language of the island. However, it has been shown that Callanish was never an English corruption of the Gaelic, but was a much older Norse word. The Vikings had a large effect on these islands, and many place names are in fact Norse. So I stick with Callanish, rather than the recently invented Calanais which has no basis in history.